West Texas National Parks

The sun was glaringly bright in our faces as it began to sink in the western sky. The desert was living up to its usual tricks by buffeting us with a strong headwind as we crossed into the state of Texas and made our way to Guadalupe NP.

The campground was a short drive off the Highway and had a small paved area for RV’s. We backed into a spot so our back end would be protected by the trees and out the front we got expansive views of the mountain ranges surrounding us. The wind blew strong all night shaking Dude violently, with memories of our night in Mojave National Preserve I barely slept.

Feeling tired it was nice to take a rest day. The Frijoles Ranch Museum was nearby so we visited the homestead and walked around the orchard with its spring fed canal watering system. Curious about the water source we hiked part way up the ridge to see the natural springs seeping out of the mountainside.

With Guadalupe NP having the “tallest peak” in Texas we couldn’t resist the hike to the top and set off early the next morning to climb 3,000ft (914m) up to Guadalupe Peak at 8,749 ft (2,667m). Grey clouds had rolled in overnight and it seemed the sky would open up at any moment but as we began to climb I could feel the humidity in the air.

It was a warm start

It was a different story the higher we climbed and when we rounded the western side the wind blasted us with cold air.

If it's there ...we'll hike it

When we reached the peak sleet pelted down so we quickly put on our jackets, beanies and gloves to stop from freezing. 

Hurry up and take the photo...it's freezing

The panorama was amazing and had the weather been nicer we would have stopped for a while to take in the view of surrounding ridges, sand flats and strange green crop circles but after taking a few photos my fingers were numb and it was time to leave.

Standing on the top of Texas

On the way down we stopped at a sheltered spot overlooking the campground to sit and enjoy our hot coffee.

An interesting feature called Devils Hall had us lacing up our hiking boots before leaving the park the next day. The trail followed a river wash up into a canyon where a set of natural steps had been created over time by the water pour off. As we climbed up the steps we entered a narrow “hall” where rushing water has carved out a narrow slot revealing layers of sediment in the cliffs on either side.

Devill's Hall

Guadalupe Peak

We drove onto Fort Davis and stopped at the military post. We walked around the grounds and through the restored buildings and tried to imagine life in the Wild West.

Fort Davis

The Infantrymen here were responsible for providing safe travel for emigrant travelers, freight wagons and mail along this increasingly popular San Antonio - El Paso Road from raiding Indian warriors inhabiting the area. It all seemed a bit surreal after all my childhood years of watching American Western movies.

As we continued south we were transported from the Wild West and into the realm of cosmic mystery. We had arrived in Marfa where unexplained night lights have made the town famous. Quite unexpectedly we chanced upon an urban coffee house and enjoyed a genuine espresso coffee. I had thoughts of staying the night just out of town where enthusiasts gather to watch the night sky but John was just not interested.

Driving out to Big Bend NP we called into Fort Leaton where two guides gave us commentary as we walked around the fortified Mexican trading post. It was our first really hot day and with some distance to go before reaching the National Park and nothing available in the State Park we decided Maverick Ranch RV Resort at Lajitas, was too good to pass up. As soon as we settled in we went swimming in the pool. This gained us lots of comments from a group sitting nearby sayin’ “isn’t that too cold for y’all to be swimmin’ in…!!

The Rio Grande's fluid border.....

We arrived in Big Bend NP and headed up into the Chisos Mountains to have a change from the desert scenery. We were not disappointed with the campground situated in a basin that was surrounded by 360 degrees of mountains. We were now camped at 5,500 ft (1,676 m) and the temps here were a lot cooler than we'd experienced over the last few days.

The next morning we set off on a 10m (16 km) hike climbing up the Pinnacles in the fresh morning air.

Before the sand storm...

We traversed several trails around Mt Emory to a lookout point on the western side but by the time we arrived the view of the surrounding desert had disappeared by a sand storm whipped up from the howling wind and at times we were nearly blown off the mountain by the strong wind. It was nice to arrive in the sheltered area of Laguna Meadows as we made our way back through volcanic rocks to the campground.

Amazing rock colours

We woke to 31.0 F but the wind chill made it feel much colder and instead of hiking the trail out the Lost Mine we decided to head back down to the desert where it was warmer. There’s just no pleasing some people…. We noticed the wind had eased a bit as we drove out of the mountains and I came up with the idea we should ride our mountain bikes 7 miles (11 km’s) along the dirt road to the iconic Balancing Rock.

Balancing Rock

Prickly Pear Cactus

The beauty of nature 

Interesting features in the boulder field

With a tail wind and downhill getting out there was a piece of cake but riding back was a different matter. It took twice as long getting back so we were spent by the time we got back to Dude.

Keeping fit for Night Dawg rides

Hey wait for me....

After our hiking and biking we enjoyed a rest day at the Rio Grande campground. Then late in the afternoon we drove out to see the ruins of Langford Ranch and to go for a dip in the hot springs.

The Rio Grande and Mexico

It's hot in here

We soaked in the 100 F water and then cooled off in the flowing Rio Grande River and sat gazing into Mexico.

Interesting landscape

The sky was filled with uniform puffy white clouds as the sun set on the golden cliffs and tall green reeds.

Amazing sunset

Next day we drive out to Boquillas Canyon. On the hike down to the river we were serenaded by a local sitting on the Mexican shore with his strong voice naturally amplified by the canyon.

Trail down to Boquillas Canyon

Another Mexican local sat on a burro on the US side and sent signals to his amigos from high up on the hill that new tourists were coming and that he should commence singing.

Boquillas Canyon

The canyon itself was shaded and provided a pleasant respite from the rising temperature.

We hiked out to the nature trail late in the afternoon crossing a floating bridge and boardwalk through a natural spring fed wetlands and reeds. 

Nature Trail overlooking Rio Grande campground

We spotted numerous birds including a large crane, fish and some turtles fighting over the only piece of dry land.

Back at the Village store a Road Runner came out of the bushes and dined on the left over crumbs from the picnic tables. He stopped and posed while John took some photos. He hung around for quite some time and apparently this was part of his daily routine.

Big bend is the convergence zone for many "Snow Birds"  flying south for the winter and we chatted to many of them from  Michigan, Illinois, South Carolina, West Virginia, Ontario and a even couple of Aussies living in Boston.

Rio Grande sunrise

It was a beautiful sunny day when we drove out to the Castolon area of the NP and set up camp in the Cottonwood Campground.

View of San Helena Canyon in the distance

Cottonwood Trees

Just as we arrived a band of Javelina’s came out of the brush and began grazing. 

Grazing Javelina's

regular visitors to the campground

By late afternoon our campsite quickly resembled a southern swamp as the irrigation was turned on to water the cottonwood trees.

Swampland

Northern Cardinal

A thunderstorm threatened

We spent the next morning exploring the San Helena Canyon and contrary to the advice from the ranger the Rio Grande was flowing and it would have been really serene to have taken Aqua Dude for a paddle.

San Helena Canyon and Rio Grande River

San Helena Canyon