Friday, April 19, 2013

Mosquito Mojito's

We met an English couple while walking the Royal Palm Trail in Collier-Seminole State Park recommending we should call into Robert’s in Homestead.....all I can say is the tropical thick shake’s are worth stopping for.

Arriving in Key Largo our search for warmer weather had ended as it was now hot and humid. It had a laid back atmosphere but my senses were bombarded with large billboards offering everything from boat tours, scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing charters, restaurants, art studios, T-Shirt outlets and many more.


Key Largo

Then as we drove out of Key Largo along the “Overseas Hwy” and over the first of 42 bridges gazing at the incredible blue of the water I realised this was our first view of the Atlantic Ocean. We had driven 5,805 miles (9,342 km’s) to see it. 



Overseas Hwy

Gazing at the beautiful water

We crossed the new 7 mile (12 km’s) bridge and turned into Bahia Honda State Park, just before Big Pine Key, our home for the next 2 nights. We woke to warm sunny weather and we went for our first swim in the Atlantic Ocean.

It was much later when I began scratching that I found I had been eaten alive with either sand or water fleas. We took a short walk along the old Bahia Honda Bridge and watched the sun set as we dreamed of sailing into the sunset. 


Bahia Honda SP
Atlantic Ocean


There was not much chance of sleep as our campground backed onto Hwy 1 and the traffic seemed intent on an all night serenade. Wide awake we broke camp early the next morning and made our way directly to Leo’s Campground in Key West. At $77 per night and this was the cheapest accommodation from hotels to campgrounds we could find.

After lunch we rode our bikes 4.5 miles (7 km’s) into Key West. We sat sipping coffee and eating Key Lime Pie at Mallory Square watching tourists and the many free range roosters walking around the streets. In the popular Duvall Street spring break crowds were partying to noisy music.

We rode by beautiful timber homes with lovely coloured shutters, white fences, balconies and lovely tropical gardens ending up at the southernmost point of the US where we waited in a long line to take a photo. 


All around were beautiful homes

It's an expensive place

Island shopping

Key Lime Pie and Latte's

Just the thing for a lazy afternoon

We're on key West time now

I could live here

Nearest land south....Cuba

Lovely tropical gardens and decorative balconies

Charming architecture

Roosters, vehicles and bikes 

We stopped at Ernest Hemmingway’s home on our way back to the pier to have a seafood dinner at the Half Shell Raw Bar. We enjoyed half a dozen of the best tasting raw oysters, lobster bisque, spicy conch fritters and Mahi Mahi fish with salad. We sipped beer and Mojito’s a perfect way to end the day


Dinning out...

That evening we packed our backpacks ready for our 4 day trip to the Dry Tortugas NP.

We were up and ready in the dark for our 6am taxi ride to the ferry the next morning and the ferry departed as the sun rose. The day was sunny and windy and the crossing was rough.

Our first view of Dry Tortugas NP

Landing at Fort Jefferson

Jetty at Fort Jefferson

After arriving we collected our gear and pitched our tent in the campground.  We had four amazing days exploring Fort Jefferson, snorkeling around the Fort, paddling our kayak around the Fort and over to Bird Island where we saw Frigate birds and Terns, standing on the jetty watching sharks swimming in the water below and our favourite pastime was looking for Elvis....


Our backyard

Setting up home..

This was the biggest Blue Bottle I have ever seen

View from the top of the Fort

Until recently these were two islands.... 

This 3 story uncompleted coastal Fort was under construction during the civil war and was supposed to have been fortified with 400 canons though it never fired a shot in anger. When a confederate flotilla demanded the Fort’s surrender the Commandant gave them 15 minutes to depart or he would “blow them out of the water”. It worked but it was only a bluff as no canons had been installed at the time.


Fort Jefferson

Some Pelican madness

Pristine blue water  

The beach behind the campground

Our campground

I feel like I'm back in the Fly Islands of Papua New Guinea

Watch out for blue bottles

Moat around Fort Jefferson

Holding the sands of time...

Tropical purple fan coral

We met two sea kayaking enthusiasts who paddled to Loggerhead Island twice (a total of 12 miles (19 km’s) and asked if we would join them.

Loggerhead Island.....a view using my zoom lens

We were keen to go but unsure of our kayaks seaworthiness if swamped and I wondered about my physical abilities so we declined. On their return from their second trip they were glad we hadn’t accompanied them as it had been a tough crossing, even for them, as they had to use their paddles to climb huge waves that then crashed over them as they paddled into a stiff headwind.


Bird Island

Where's my dinner

I need a new home...

Serenity at sunset

One of the frigate birds gliding above the fort

Paradise at last

Ahhh....we could get used to Island life 

Elvis, as John called him..... left the moat....

and yes the moat has an alligator…..!!


Booby's on Hospital Island


We enjoyed a farewell dinner with our new friends at Mo’s Restaurant back in Key West before they dropped us off at Leo's on their way to Flamingo campground in Everglades NP.



Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Everglades NP

As we turned south towards Homestead we travelled through large market garden areas and Dude got several soakings from the movable irrigation systems watering everything in its path. 

A short time later we entered Everglades NP and drove out to Flamingo where we had a reservation in the Flamingo campground. It felt wonderful to be enjoying a balmy evening albeit along with the mozzies.

Riding our bikes to the Visitors Centre it felt like we were in a wildlife movie. Osprey flew so low over our head’s that we could see the fish they had in their talons. They had nests in dead trees along the trail and in towers above the Visitors Centre. In the canal we could see American Crocodiles sunning themselves and in the marina we watched Manatees. Everywhere we looked we could see egrets, ibis’s and many other birds. Even in our campground we got to see a Pileated Woodpecker pecking away at the dead palm tree next to our campsite…!!

Pileated Woodpecker

The rating for mozzies was low for this time of year but even so we didn’t get any sleep until John set up the mosquito net over our bed.

Up early the next day we rented a canoe and drove to the Nine Mile Pond canoe loop, which is actually 5.5 miles (9 km's). The car park was overtaken by black vultures and as John soon found out a large alligator sunning himself in the boat launch area…!!


Regular Friday get together....

We paddled across a large lake finding the first marker on the far side and following the trail through thick mangroves  it wasn’t long before we encountered our second alligator in the middle of the narrow channel where the water was very shallow, with no alternative we paddled straight over the top of him as he sank leaving an outline of tiny bubbles on the water’s surface.

I couldn’t believe we had just done that but I was assured these were not like Australian Croc’s. So we paddled on fearlessly following the markers through more narrow mangrove channels. A while later it opened out a bit and we saw turtles hiding in soft green algae along with lots of fish. 


Paddling with the alligators....

No elbow room here

At the turnaround point the trail opened out into vast open spaces dotted with small islands of mangroves and palm trees with floating algae covering the water. Towards the end we entered into the mangroves again and saw more alligators in the water. 

Algae everywhere...looked like floating bread

Then paddling across two ponds at the end alligators were sunning themselves on the embankment. When I looked backed one of them had disappeared.....I gulped thinking was he going to come up underneath us. I found I couldn't paddle fast enough to reach the shore.


Relaxing or thinking about having a snack ?

Alligator ? where.....

Food, food gotta get some food...

American crocodiles chilling out in the sunshine

Marina and palm tree...I felt like I was in PNG

Grape tree

Osprey's at home

 
Gumbo Limbo tree


A narrow trail between the swamps


Mahogany Trees in our campground


Hawking around....

Before I had a chance to recover we were on the water again this time following 180 markers along the Hells Bay Canoe Trail to the Pearl Bay Chickee, a floating platform, for an overnight stay in the swamp. We paddled 3.5 miles (5.6 km’s) taking 2.5 hours winding through tight mangrove channels until it finally opened out into larger bays.



Following the markers

Terrain starting to open out

What was I thinking, how am I going to sleep tonight with alligators circling below and mosquitoes buzzing above…..


Pearl Bay Chickee

We rested in our hammock sipping on our bug deterrent…a spiced rum, watching the sun set in golden hues that gave way to a beautiful starry night.
   
The next morning I awoke before dawn and lay in bed watching the sky fill with colour as the sun rose. 



Time to get up

A pod of dolphins entertained us as they herded fish into shallow water and crossed the bay blowing spume into the air. It was incredible to watch and we were so glad we got to see it all to ourselves.



Dolphins passing by....

Morning light

We survived a night of mozzies and alligators...

Time to go...

We had a strong headwind on the way back making paddling hard work and I was exhausted when we arrived back at Dude. 


Conscious of our next reservation in the Keys we headed to Long Pine Key Campground, near the Park entrance, for the night stopping at interesting Hammocks along the way where we saw Roseate Spoonbills and a Red Bellied Woodpecker.



Roseate Spoonbill

Red Bellied Woodpecker


Before leaving the Park we stopped at the Anhinga Trail and found it was teaming with alligators and birds….!!


...this is my Island

You sure it's yours

You don't scare me

Fun in the mud 


Is this my best side....

An alligator swims by Anhinga's
 hanging out in the trees

What will I do today..

Anhinga drying out