Down the Mississippi to the Gulf of Mexico

We survived the stormy night of wild lightning flashes, loud thunder and being buffeted by the wind and departed Memphis the next day knowing for sure that……..Elvis has left the building.

Today was our 50^th day on the road and John noted that we’d clocked up 4,000 miles (6,486 km’s) but we still had a long way to go before arriving in Florida Keys.

Our plan now was to find some warmer weather and the best way for that to happen was to join the Snow Birders and head south.

With a chilly tailwind and mostly cloudy skies we drove into the rich agricultural region of the Mississippi Delta. 

Abundant water

Surrounded by expansive fields with no fences I imaged how it would look in summer when the crops of rice, wheat, corn and cotton would carpet the area in a sea of green, gold and white.

Fields ready for summer

We crossed the muddy rivers of Coldwater, Tallahatchie and Yazoo but really everywhere I looked water was sitting in puddles or running in rivers and creeks. 

Lots of Rivers and Creeks

We followed the Mississippi River along the Great Scenic River Road but all we got to see was the levee and we’d driven all this way to see the river.

At Greenville we discovered that Warfield County Park had a campground and it was the only one in the southern region that overlooked the river.

So we promptly drove out and registered for the night. Not long after we arrived we heard the horns of the river tugs and climbed up a viewing tower, with our coffee in hand, to watch them slowly pushing their huge barges upstream.

  

 The famous Mississippi River

Warfield Park Campground

Despite the cold we stayed and watched them while the sunset cloaked the landscape in a beautiful golden glow.

We took a detour around Lake Washington to look at the old plantation mansions some beautifully restored and others derelict and covered in Kudzu vine.

Kudzu taking over....

Mansions  along Washington Lake

One of the many jetties on Washington Lake

Another mansion with tulip tree in bloom

Farmland around the lake

It was too cold for the alligators to come out....

We were now driving into a headwind towards Vicksburg and the sky looked like it was brewing up a mean storm……and I wondered about Tornado’s. We drove by lush green and yellow fields and saw Kudzu vines smothering everything in its path including poles, overhead wires, fences, trees and  buildings. 

Another storm was brewing

Mississippi River at Vicksburg

We arrived at the Vicksburg National Military Park as the storm continued to develop. We spent 3 hours at the museum and driving around the well presented park learning about what was one of the major turning points of the Civil War.

Vicksburg Military Park

We toured the salvaged and restored USS Cairo, an ironclad riverboat which featured prominently in the battle for Vicksburg and resulted in control of the Mississippi River for the Union forces.

USS Cairo

One of the many monuments in the Park

The heavens finally opened up with torrential rain, lightning and thunder and we still had another 60 miles (96 km’s) to drive before reaching our planned campsite for the night. 

The storm didn’t let up and visibility was limited so that at times we could barely see and the road that was turning into a river. 

Our tour of Vicksburg

Water was now coming into Dude via the air conditioning vent from the strong wind and rain. I felt uneasy and turned on the radio to hear a warning of tornadoes in the Fayette area that was 5 miles from where we were driving.So I was relieved when we finally arrived at our campground for the night and the rain had stopped. After the excitement of getting into camp that night it was wonderful to wake the next morning to a nice sunny day and to hear the birds chirping.

In Natchez we photographed lovely antebellum (pre Civil War) mansions and learnt that the Natchez Trace Parkway was a natural travel corridor used by Natchez and other Indian Nations. Then as the west expanded it was used by early settlers and by river traders from the Ohio River Valley who floated their cargo down the Mississippi River to Natchez, sold their goods and barges for timber then walked back. 

One of the Mansions in Natchez

We toured two vastly different places of history one being the home of the freed slave turned entrepreneur William Johnson and the other a plantation owners antebellum mansion at the Melrose Estate. Both being operated by the National Parks and very well presented and restored as original. 

Melrose Estate

Oak trees covered in Spanish Moss

As we continued south into Louisiana we were accompanied again by dark menacing skies that opened up into another storm.  We drove through rolling hills that were mostly forested and some farms…now with fences which was a nice change after the flat delta regions.

But it wasn’t long before we reunited with the Mississippi River and its ever present levee standing guard over the adjoining communities…..it is claimed that the levee is greater in length than the Great Wall of China.

We skirted by the industrialised city of Baton Rouge and into vast Plantation areas where many of the Mansions are now operated as Bed and Breakfasts and are still working plantations.

Then on our approach into New Orleans we took Scenic Route 16 that ironically led us by lots of Oil Refineries with huge pipes constructed up and over the road to the plants located on the other side.

We were now in the Gulf of Mexico…

Memphis Tennessee

I Was All Shook Up….. I could hardly believe I was crossing the famous Mississippi River into Memphis and that tomorrow I would be visiting Graceland.

Memphis

Although Memphis was not a frozen landscape like most places further north we were experiencing a near freezing day which made walking around town and catching the trolley a bit nippy. So when the wind blew snow flurries into our faces at the Welcome Centre we decided to drive out to the State Park to take some time reading the brochures while nice and cozy inside Dude.

Welcome Centre

Shake, Rattle and Roll…..was the only way to describe our drive over the pot holed road so when we arrived at the State Park to find an overpowering boggy smell we promptly drove back into Memphis.

With thoughts of our Graceland visit tomorrow we called in to enquire about parking Dude and as luck would have it they had their own RV Park next door so we booked in for the next 3 nights.

With everything falling into place we could now feel the strong pull of the blues. So wearing our thermals, beanies and jackets we ventured into the heart and soul of Memphis…. Beale Street. 

Blue sky ....and Blues Music

Beale Streer

As daylight faded the live music from the various Clubs, Bars and restaurants vibrated into the street creating a wonderful atmosphere.

We found ourselves being drawn, by the amazing sounds, into BB Kings Blues Club.

As we entered there was standing room only and I had never heard such great live music, acoustics with ambiance to match. When the band took a break the crowd thinned leaving us a prime spot to sit close the stage.

We drank beer and Motown Margaritas while Will Tucker and BB Kings All Stars played. Boy this 19 year old kid could play a mean guitar……!! It was totally awesome. 

Will Tucker

Our stomachs were grumbling and with more to explore we left in search of food and more live music.

Just across the street at the King’s Palace a gentleman was playing soft blues ……excellent. We enjoyed a platter for two of local cuisine and red wine soaking up the sounds.

I left Beale Street thinking what it must have been like in the 50’s and 60’s with so many great musicians playing on the streets….BB King, Jerry Lee Lewis, Elvis, Johnny Cash and so many others.

Like so many other people I remember where I was when Elvis died and to be here visiting Graceland seemed unreal. With tickets in hand we were shuttled by bus to the mansion where I experienced some unexpected emotion with tears rolling down my face.

Graceland

Inside the Mansion time has stood still with everything remaining as it was in the 70’s. 

Among the many interesting things was the pool table room that was covered wall to wall and ceiling with material and the jungle room with interesting dark wood furniture and green floor to ceiling carpet.

Pool Table Room

Jungle Room

It was incredible to see his display of Gold and Platinum awards, of which 12 of the Gold awards displayed were from record sales just from Australia. There were also many of his touring outfits showcased.

Wall to ceiling....displays of awards

Back yard of Graceland

We walked through the Racquetball Building where he passed away.

The Mansion tour ended via his final resting place in the tranquil Meditation Garden….. to think he purchased this Mansion at 22 , died at 42, made 29 movies, did National Service …..he certainly packed a lot into those 20 years. Interestingly though he never performed outside the US.

Meditation Garden

Back across the road we toured his custom jets, one of which was the first privately owned, as John called it “flying apartment” complete with lounge room, dining room and bedroom. Interesting that the bed had to have a seat belt, a 24 carat gold one at that, as required by the FAA.

Private Jet

TheJets  Bedroom and John  reading about
  the 24 carrot seat belt

We then toured his car museum that included his famous pink Cadillac.

Pink Cadillac

Late in the day we watched his 1968 come back concert and his Hawaii by satellite concert that displayed his American Eagle outfit worn during the show. Amazingly the cape he threw into the audience was returned when the owner past away.

American Eagle Outfit

We walked back to our camp ground around 4 pm just as the Park was closing reflecting on our day of “all things Elvis”.

That night we were rocked to sleep by strong winds, lightning, thunder and heavy rain.